Tailoring hundreds of costumes, prepping sensitive lab experiments, mounting library exhibits — the work of a university demands a sweeping range of skills, expertise, and equipment. From sewing machines to medical manikins, these are some of the tools staff use to support Yale’s mission. What’s yours?
Juki Sewing Machine
Mary Zihal, senior draper
David Geffen School of Drama at Yale/Yale Repertory Theatre
The costume shop is abuzz. Its walls are crowded with colorful fabric, thread spools, design sketches, and never-ending notions, a stimulating backdrop for the whir of sewing machines as Mary Zihal and colleagues work on all stages of constructing theatrical garments.
Here, Mary is sewing a late-1950’s-style blouse in a floral silk fabric for the character of Martha in the Edward Albee drama, “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” It’s one of 15 costume pieces she and her colleagues produced for the play. For each Yale Repertory Theatre and student production, a total of eight per year, Mary and her colleagues typically create six to eight costumes from scratch. They also alter and augment up to 150 existing costumes a year, informed by the show designer’s vision and the drapers’ historical research.
Mary’s work is rooted in the personal; her mother was a garment worker in New York City who was proud of how many nightgowns she could make in a day. After Mary earned her MFA in costume design, she began working in theatrical costume shops and gravitated toward the construction end of costume production. With pride, she says she finds it “poetic” that she has followed in her mother’s footsteps.